Fall 2013 Couture : Atelier Versace

“You know – just impeccable clothes” – Donatella Versace

Donatella goes classy, channelling old-hollywood glamour in her latest couture collection for Versace. Inspiring the collection was the “Horst and Man Ray” era of the thirties, described by the designer herself as a moment of precision, perfection, and lots of work.

She opened the show having Naomi Campbell strut down the catwalk for the first time since Gianni’s death in 1997 – clad in crystal hooks and sequins with peep-through lingerie – which surely set the scene for the rest of the show.

The signature chez Versace body-con silhouette still remained, however there was an heir of new-found confidence in the collection – evolving from previous shows.

Strong crocodile tailoring in the structured skirt suits was beautifully evident in the skin-tight leather or open-cut panels in the front or back, revealing embroidered bustiers underneath. The leather dyed garnet, navy blue and green – cut through with sequinned embroidery and some lined with shaved mink – the pinnacle of luxury couture fur.

There is no question about the underlying theme of the show (not surprising for Versace): skin! Cropped sweaters, open cut-work, deep naval-touching necklines in the jumpsuits and thigh-high slits; there was no shortage of flesh being shown but unlike previous shows, it was done in a more tasteful way –  The hooks and eyes left areas of fabric to strategically peel back across torsos and backs, revealing delicate black corsetry and tulle cutaway bodysuits.

My favourites were the long corseted evening dresses – the one with the illusion neckline, embroidered black and midnight blue tulle and sequins – and the jumpsuit worn by Lindsay Wixon, panelled from lace, net, and hand-woven leather. (see above)

With every model wearing diamond jewellery designed by the house, the hollywood glamour shone through with the sexiness of skin and intricate, laborious detailing —> Keeping to Versace roots… but ever so elegantly evolving.

Photos: GoRunway/ InDigital – Style.com

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Defiles haute couture printemps-ete 2013, episode 1 | French Vogue

Click on the link above to see French Vogue’s journal de la fashion week – this time covering recent couture shows in the breathtaking snow-covered streets of Paris.

Here we have Day One which included the likes of Dior, Valli, and Iris Van Herpen – with a little Atélier Versace from the night before.

For Dior we see Janet Lee inspired hair from Guido Palau – also an ode to the iconic actresses of today, such as Anne Hathway. Make-up wise, Pat McGrath gives the Dior audience a modern take on flowers (as instructed by Raf Simons) with the big emphasis on bejewelled lips and shimmer on the eyes accompanied by little feathers on the lashes.

We then see incredible innovation at Iris Van Herpen, where a fabric so new that it is yet to be given an actual name was showcased for the very first time. A first experiment of different structures and aesthetics to create something truly eye-catching.

Giambattista Valli spoke about how he wanted to focus more and more around design in an almost industrial way (not that he has to prove anything to anyone, his shows keep getting better and better!)

This time he said it was about flora power and his love of silhouettes of big volumes, but balances with lightness and sheerness. Magical.

Defiles haute couture printemps-ete 2013, episode 1 | French Vogue

Best of Paris Couture: Valentino s/s 2012

It was a bouquet of flowers á la Valentino by Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri — romantic & girly, légère & luxurious, and yet refreshingly different compared to the other couture shows.

Consistencies of feminine floral patterns on layered chiffon, and heavy silks & satins with prim & proper silhouettes, gave us a “Jane Eyre-esque” vibe with the high Victorian necks and long sleeves.

The collection evoked an element of couture modernity with white woollen trousers (very wearable and rather informal for traditional couture!) and had with it a sense of understated sexiness (you know that’s my favourite!), ending the show with lace covered in embellishments of pearls and crystals  – showing some skin yet keeping things hidden underneath sheer fabrics.

Vintage shoes in matching florals topped it all off and the models looked so fresh, simple and elegant with that one flick of winged kohl, lining just the outer edges of the eyes whilst keeping the rest of the face neutral — always one of my most favourite couture shows — it never fails to impress, astonish, or leave us fantasising in awe…