Fall 2013 Couture : Atelier Versace

“You know – just impeccable clothes” – Donatella Versace

Donatella goes classy, channelling old-hollywood glamour in her latest couture collection for Versace. Inspiring the collection was the “Horst and Man Ray” era of the thirties, described by the designer herself as a moment of precision, perfection, and lots of work.

She opened the show having Naomi Campbell strut down the catwalk for the first time since Gianni’s death in 1997 – clad in crystal hooks and sequins with peep-through lingerie – which surely set the scene for the rest of the show.

The signature chez Versace body-con silhouette still remained, however there was an heir of new-found confidence in the collection – evolving from previous shows.

Strong crocodile tailoring in the structured skirt suits was beautifully evident in the skin-tight leather or open-cut panels in the front or back, revealing embroidered bustiers underneath. The leather dyed garnet, navy blue and green – cut through with sequinned embroidery and some lined with shaved mink – the pinnacle of luxury couture fur.

There is no question about the underlying theme of the show (not surprising for Versace): skin! Cropped sweaters, open cut-work, deep naval-touching necklines in the jumpsuits and thigh-high slits; there was no shortage of flesh being shown but unlike previous shows, it was done in a more tasteful way –  The hooks and eyes left areas of fabric to strategically peel back across torsos and backs, revealing delicate black corsetry and tulle cutaway bodysuits.

My favourites were the long corseted evening dresses – the one with the illusion neckline, embroidered black and midnight blue tulle and sequins – and the jumpsuit worn by Lindsay Wixon, panelled from lace, net, and hand-woven leather. (see above)

With every model wearing diamond jewellery designed by the house, the hollywood glamour shone through with the sexiness of skin and intricate, laborious detailing —> Keeping to Versace roots… but ever so elegantly evolving.

Photos: GoRunway/ InDigital – Style.com

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