Rag & Bone: R-T-W a/w 2013

Marcus Wainwright and David Neville’s “girl” for fall was inspired by the minimal-chic mod of the sixties combined with the idea of aviation & fighter planes in particular, with vintage flight suits having been a longtime obsession of Wainwright’s – a contrast to their Dacar racetrack inspired Spring collection.

These ideas became reality in the form of short, simple and bold looks that any trendy 20-twenty something city girl would kill to wear —> sounds a bit like someone I know?

It was impossible to miss the Chanel-esque references in the outfits (tweed jackets and quilted textures) but these had a Rag & Bone edge, something unique with oversizing the jackets and trousers – giving it all a more casual, work-wear feel. (would Coco approve? I know I do!)

The designers’ British upbringing wasn’t missed either, with menswear check prints, reconstructing the classic houndstooth in grandiose proportions and having tailored pieces in a digitised Prince of Wales wool.

What absolutely captured me most about the show (on top of everything else!) was the colour palette – it’s as if the collection was designed with my favourite colour combinations in mind: deep purples, sea-foam green, flashes of orange and the ever so prominent cobalt blue. The airplane-inspirations were also seen in the contrasted colours of dark grey, olive and black, to further emphasise the bold colour pops.

Of course the signature layering was present – although cleaner and more sophisticated compared to previous collections – this time with dark thigh-highs showing beneath the super-short hemlines of mini skirts and lust-worthy blazers and coats to top it all off.

Always one of my favourite shows of New York Fashion Week, the Rag & Bone “girl” is definitely growing up and I for one am excited to see what “woman” is about to emerge.

New York Fashion Week Favourite: Diane Von Furstenburg a/w 2012

“Rendez-Vous” – the notion that anything can happen, that anything is possible; a sense of adventure – was the title of DVF’s fall collection which was all about seduction. The show notes of Diane and French creative director Yvan Misplaere tell us that “glamorous is at a moment’s notice… she is effortless & elaborate” and bearing “a heightened awareness to the promise of places she has not yet been“… so mysterious! – which is precisely the intended effect we received of the collection.

While we’re used to DVF’s signature prints and expert wrap-dresses, she pared things down this season, which ended up having dramatic and alluring effects, combined with the bold colour blocking. Despite this minimalistic colour trend (which wasn’t so minimalistic if you take into account the bold brights), whimsical prints were still present with jigsaw puzzles, little eyes, and chains, which symbolised the whole aura of fun, mystery and spontaneity so central to the message within the collection…

Silhouettes were sleek and languid yet had cover ups in combination, thereby presenting a “Ying & Yang“, which Diane described as “what makes a woman fun“. So she was the queen of juxtapositions: the matte & the shiny; the short & the long; the tight & the loose — each seen within the show and each invoking a sense of confidence, which every DVF girl possesses at its finest.

Finally, a review of this beautiful display cannot end without at least mentioning the delicious colours… deep magentas, peacock blues, rich maroons, mustard hues, gold, muted chartreuse… even daring to play these striking colours together in a mastery of colour blocking — “we do colour blocking with our eyes closed“… well if this is what happens when her eyes are closed, I can’t imagine what amazing things she’d come up with, with her eyes open!

Overall a very wearable collection with clean and simple elegance… smart blazers, loose trousers, a clear mix of separates, dresses, and jumpsuits (the pink jumpsuit paired with the aubergine coat is on my wish list!) — it was bold, daring, strong… evoking exactly the type of “elegant but glamorous & seductive” woman who is “ready for anything” that Miss Von Furstenburg so perfectly aimed to show us.

I don’t think the question is whether this woman is ready for anything, but rather: is the world ready for her? — I think i’d like to wear the clothes and test out the theory myself!

Are you ready for your rendez-vous?

New York Fashion Week Favourite: Marc Jacobs a/w 2012

For my first fashion week review I thought it would be appropriate to deviate from ordering the shows as to the date they were shown and jump straight to New York’s darling: Marc Jacobs — he’s always been an absolute favourite designer of mine as he, alone, sparked my initial interest in fashion & was the first luxury designer handbag I ever invested in.. I guess you could say he sort of has a sentimental value in my heart.

His autumn/winter collection more than proves himself worthy of such admiration and talent; starting off with an outer-worldy set of an icy, warped, wintry village – designed by renowned artist friend Rachel Feinstein (who is one of the features in the latest LOVE Magazine) – Marc restored the subversive elements to the world of fairy tales.

It was like being Alice in a Marc Jacobs Wonderland (complete with mad-hatters and exaggerated everything) mixed with Little Red Riding Hood, lost in an enchanted forest.

The colourful parade of furry Dr Seuss hats (designed by Stephen Jones) combined with holographic-looking appliqués, paisley-prints (which are continuing to be on trend so it’s a perfect time to invest now for both spring and fall!), oversized safety pins holding in place the draped fur shrugs with chunky crocheted stoles around the shoulders, and unique Ostrich shoes gave the audience a less traditional Disney-esque feel of fables

Layered wraps & capes reigned supreme with a piled combination of textures, colours, and patchwork present in every outfit. Silhouettes included hourglass shapes and exaggerated hips, and were bulkier and looser with expert box pleating for cropped jackets & loose dresses worn over cropped pants.

I loved the Oliver Twist sentiments of basic fabrics and colours contrasted with rich and luxurious embellishments and embroidery (another ongoing trend seen on the New York catwalks — see Altuzarra for example). The juxtaposition of the most elemental fabrics with the most affluent produced dramatic and absolutely beautiful, albeit unconventional, looks and is seen as a continuation of the past 2 season’s fascination of contrasting fabrications…

Although it wasn’t his usual kind of beautiful, this collection showed something else — it was a somewhat daring and ornate kind of beauty, which evoked a sense of curiosity and fun into fashion… poetic & magical — Master Marc does it again!

French Vogue Fashion Week Journal – New York #1

This is such a cool alternative video showcasing New York fashion week so far… models off-duty, street-style looks of the moment as seen on socialites, editors and style ambassadors, and great shots of the action on the runway and behind the scenes…

The runway set design at Lacoste was wintery and exciting, Prabal Gurung names Joan Smalls as his model of the moment and his colour Blue, and the video also features one of my favourite shows of the season – Moroccan inspired Altuzarra – providing a preview of my upcoming post talking about one of the recurring trends hitting the runways in the Big Apple this autumn season… Can you guess what it is!?

I know the anticipation may be too much to bare…. Stay tuned!

French Vogue Fashion Week Journal – New York #1