Marcus Wainwright and David Neville’s “girl” for fall was inspired by the minimal-chic mod of the sixties combined with the idea of aviation & fighter planes in particular, with vintage flight suits having been a longtime obsession of Wainwright’s – a contrast to their Dacar racetrack inspired Spring collection.
These ideas became reality in the form of short, simple and bold looks that any trendy 20-twenty something city girl would kill to wear —> sounds a bit like someone I know?
It was impossible to miss the Chanel-esque references in the outfits (tweed jackets and quilted textures) but these had a Rag & Bone edge, something unique with oversizing the jackets and trousers – giving it all a more casual, work-wear feel. (would Coco approve? I know I do!)
The designers’ British upbringing wasn’t missed either, with menswear check prints, reconstructing the classic houndstooth in grandiose proportions and having tailored pieces in a digitised Prince of Wales wool.
What absolutely captured me most about the show (on top of everything else!) was the colour palette – it’s as if the collection was designed with my favourite colour combinations in mind: deep purples, sea-foam green, flashes of orange and the ever so prominent cobalt blue. The airplane-inspirations were also seen in the contrasted colours of dark grey, olive and black, to further emphasise the bold colour pops.
Of course the signature layering was present – although cleaner and more sophisticated compared to previous collections – this time with dark thigh-highs showing beneath the super-short hemlines of mini skirts and lust-worthy blazers and coats to top it all off.
Always one of my favourite shows of New York Fashion Week, the Rag & Bone “girl” is definitely growing up and I for one am excited to see what “woman” is about to emerge.
FASHIONEEKA. 