Pops of colour amidst dusty tones were the thoughts behind these outfits for Vancouver Fashion Week. As we were lucky the rain held out – which I can’t exactly say for the rest of the week – I decided to make the most of it and go for a more summery feel for the look: a midi-skirt with flowy pleats and subtle leopard print, cobalt blue popping out against a light olive cropped jacket and not-so rain appropriate suede booties. Ryan opted for a lightweight three-piece – perfect for a warmer summer day – paired with a classic chambray (a wardrobe staple) to bring a bit of a laid-back coolness. Photos: via Streetscout.me
As Alexander Wang was about to make his debut at Balenciaga, the thought on everyone’s mind must have been: “how is it possible to even TRY and follow the outstanding designs which have graced this french house under the hands of the ever-talented Nicolas Ghesquière?”
As the audience departed Balenciaga’s intimate salons on the Avenue George V however, all doubts and worries were laid to rest. Wang confirmed that the show venue suggested going “back to the roots, identifying the codes of the house and translating them into a functioning, full wardrobe”. This not-so-simple task proved a success in my opinion as the collection felt true to the lines of Cristóbal himself (Cristóbal having been called the master of us all, according to Dior).
The collection was filled with the traditional cocoon coats, jackets with rounded volumes, petal skirts, curved hems, molded and structured peplums and bracelet sleeves (to name a few!) — sculptural qualities for which Cristóbal was celebrated for in the late 50s and 60s. Fitting for a collection going back to the codes of the house… and made innovative with dynamic new materials.
The emerging trend on Alexander’s runway both literally (the runway itself looked like it had just experienced an earhquake) and embellished on the clothes themselves was faux marble – first showing up as a fractured print on the lining of elegant tops with opened backs, then as a motif on embroidered dresses and then finally on looks which clearly had Wang-style written all over them: tuny shaved fox jackets with high-waisted velvet lace pants.. the play on the two textures = absolutely genius.
The accessories are sure to be a commercial success (along with the collection itself, which was very wearable!).. i especially have my eye on those figure-eight metal-buckled riding boots — which were also seen as closures and decoration on the garments themselves.
Tim Blanks has cleverly interpreted the cracked, paint-spackled mohair knits as a metaphor about the promise of a young designer: ”ready to break with the past when the time’s right”. The promise of Alexander and his intriguing new directions for the future are clear from this beautiful collection and when he does break with the past, I predict it’ll have everyone floored in awe.
Click on the link above to see French Vogue’s journal de la fashion week – this time covering recent couture shows in the breathtaking snow-covered streets of Paris.
Here we have Day One which included the likes of Dior, Valli, and Iris Van Herpen – with a little Atélier Versace from the night before.
For Dior we see Janet Lee inspired hair from Guido Palau – also an ode to the iconic actresses of today, such as Anne Hathway. Make-up wise, Pat McGrath gives the Dior audience a modern take on flowers (as instructed by Raf Simons) with the big emphasis on bejewelled lips and shimmer on the eyes accompanied by little feathers on the lashes.
We then see incredible innovation at Iris Van Herpen, where a fabric so new that it is yet to be given an actual name was showcased for the very first time. A first experiment of different structures and aesthetics to create something truly eye-catching.
Giambattista Valli spoke about how he wanted to focus more and more around design in an almost industrial way (not that he has to prove anything to anyone, his shows keep getting better and better!)
This time he said it was about flora power and his love of silhouettes of big volumes, but balances with lightness and sheerness. Magical.